Fabric manipulating mechanism for sewing machines



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I FABRIC MANIPULATING' MECHANISM FOR SEWING MACHINES I 5 Sheets-Sheet 1 Q & m N Q' WITNESSES.- INVENTOR:

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FABRIC MANIPULATING MECHANISM FOR SEWING MACHINES Filed April 16, 1935 5 Sheets-Sheet s 75 Twins E g l .v 6

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FABRIC MANIPULKTING MECHANISM FOR SEWING MACHINES Filed April 16, 1935 5 Sheets-Sheet 4 WITNESSES: IN VEN TOR:

6 Russell TEfl/ward/s,

Feb.-' 15, 1 938. R. 'r. EDWARDS I 08 A FABRIC MANIPULATING MECHANISM FOR SEWING MACHINES Filed A ril 16, 1935' 1 5 Sheets-Shee t' 5 WITNESSES.- INVENTOR:

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m mgk I Patented Feb. 15, 1938 UNITED STATES FATE on FABRIC MANIPULATING MECHANISM FOR SEWING MACHINES Application April 16,

12 Claims.

This invention relates to mechanism wherein a fabric engaging element such as a reciprocating rullling blade forms a succession of tucks in the fabric as the latter is advanced to the needle or needles of the sewing machine.

My invention is more specifically directed toward the provision of a simple and reliable mechanism embodying a fabric advancing element, and means whereby it may be controlled to advance the fabric to different extents or to form rufiles of different sizes while the sewing machine is in operation without change in its timing relative to the stitch forming instrumentalities of the machine. 7

My invention makes it possible to, adapt such mechanism to form, for example, ruflles of different predeterminable maximum and minimum sizes through provision in connection with a man ually operable control member, of motion-limiting stops capable of being set in adjusted positions, and through further provision of graduated gauge means for facilitating adjustment of the stops.

Another object of my invention is to secure the foregoing advantages in a fabric manipulating attachment wherein the actuating parts are accommodated, as far as possible, within hollows of theframewo-rk of the sewing machines, with the adjustment facilities readily accessible, however, at the exterior.

Still other objects and attendant advantages of my invention will be manifest from the detailed description following of the attached drawings, wherein Fig. I shows in side elevation, a sewing machine with a fabric manipulating mechanism conveniently embodying the present improvements.

Fig. II shows the end elevation of the machine and the fabric manipulating mechanism.

Fig. III is a transverse cross sectional view taken as indicated by the arrows III-III in Fig. I.

Fig.IV is a fragmentary detail sectional view taken as indicated by the arrows IV-IV in Figs. I and III and drawn to a larger scale.

Fig. V is a detail sectional view taken as indicated by the arrows VV in Fig. III likewise drawn to a larger scale.

Fig. VI is a perspective view of the parts constituting the fabric manipulating mechanism.

Figs. VII and VIII are simplified diagrammatic views corresponding generally to Fig. III showing the parts of the mechanism in different operative positions; and V Fig. IX is a detail sectionalview on an enlarged 1935, Serial No. 16,593

scale taken as indicated by the arrows IX-IX, in Fig. III. I

As herein shown my novel fabric manipulating mechanism comprises a horizontal rock shaft l which extends longitudinally along one side of the gooseneck 2 of the sewing machine, and which is journaled in spaced bearings 3 secured to said gooseneck by screws 4. Clamped upon the front end of the rock shaft l is an arm 5 to the lower end of which is pivoted a holder 6 carrying a fabric engaging element, having in this instance the form of a ruffiing blade 1. A helical spring 8 in tension between a lug 9 pivotally adjustable about a securing screw on the arm 5 and the outer end of the blade holder 6, serves to yieldingly urge the blade I downward. By means later on explained, the arm 5 is vibrated with attendant impartation of reciprocatory movement to the blade 1 toward and away from the needle or needles H) of the sewing machine. said needle or needles being secured in the lower end of the needle bar H, which, as usual, has guidance for vertical reciprocation in the head E2 of the gooseneck 2. The presser foot 55 of the machine cooperates with the rufiiing blade 1 in forming tucks in a fabric strip (not illustrated) fed through a downwardly sloping upper folder iii on a pendant bracket l1 secured to the head l2; while a foundation strip (not illustrated) is at the same time directed through an upwardly sloping lower folder l8, the two fabric strips being maintained in separation by a divider plate I 9 on the bracket l1, until they reach the needle or needles Ill.

The means for rocking the shaft I includes an eccentric 20 on the main drive shaft 2| of the sewing machine, which shaft is journaled in suitable bearings (not illustrated) in a hollow beneath work plate 22 of the machine, and from which the needle actuating instrumentalities derive their motion. The rod of the eccentric is articulated, that is to say, it comprises two lengthwise adjustable sections or components-a strap rod component 23 and a supplemental rod component 24which are pivot jointed at 25. At its top end, the supplemental eccentric rod component 24 has a sliding pivotal connection 26 with a longitudinally-slotted, arcuate arm 21 which reaches inwardly from the rock shaft I through an opening 28 in the standard 2a of the gooseneck .2. From Fig. III it is to be particularly noted that the center of curvature for the arcuate arm 2'! lies in the axis of the joint 25 connecting the two sections 23 and 24 of the eccentric rod, at the instant when the eccentric is in its highest position and the blade 1 is fully advanced in respect to the needle or needles l0. As a consequence of such design and proportioning of the parts, the blade I will always be advanced to the same position notwithstanding shifting of the sliding end pivot connection 26 of the eccentric rod along the arcuate arm 21 for the purpose of making large and small tucks in a manner later on more fully explained.

The control means for the blade 1 includes a manually-operable control lever 30 of angular configuration having a lateral fulcrum pin 3! which is journaled in a bearing 32 removably secured in the back Wall of the hollow standard 2a, said pin being held against axial displacement by a collar 33. When the parts are positioned as in Fig. III, it will be observed that the axis of the joint 25 connecting the eccentric rod sections 23 and 24, coincides with the axis of the fulcrum pin 3! for the control lever 38. As further shown in Fig. III, the control lever 30 is formed with a sleeve portion 39a which slidingly engages the cylindric shank 29a of the joint eye 29 of the upper eccentric rod section 24, the end of said control lever projecting outward through a vertical slot 36 in the side of the standard 2a of the gooseneck 2 for connection, by a vertical rod or link 31, with an actuating foot treadle or knee lever, not illustrated. A tension spring 38 within the hollow of the standard 2a exerts a yielding upward pull on the control lever 30 whereby the latter is normally maintained against a stop 39 which is adjustable along in the vertical slot 40 of a graduated gauge bracket 4|. As shown in Figs. I, III, and IV, the gauge bracket 4| is secured to the side of the standard 2a by screws 42. Another stop 63, similarly adjustable vertically in the slot 40 of the gauge bracket 4i, serves to limit the downward movement of the control lever 30 as shown in Fig. VIII. The two stops 39 and 43 are of like construction and securable in adjusted positions on the gauge bracket 4| by means of wing screws 44 and 45 whereof the shanks pass through the slot 40 and respectively engage axially into said stops.

The operation of my novel fabric manipulating mechanism is as follows: By continuous rotation of the main shaft 2| of the sewing machine, oscillatory movement is imparted to the rock shaft i through the eccentric 20 and the arcuate arm 21, with resultant impartation of vibratory motion to the arm 5, and, in turn, reciprocatory motion to the blade 1 toward and away from the sewing needle or needles in. When the end of the control lever 38 engages the stop 39 as in Fig. III, the sliding end connection 26 of the eccentric rod 2324 will occupy a predetermined position along the arcuate slot in the arm 21, so that a definite throw is communicated to the blade l with formation, by the latter, of small fabric tucks of a predetermined size. By moving the control lever downward until it contacts with the lower stop 43 as in Fig. VIII, the eccentric rod component 24 is swung about the axis of the joint 25 and the pivotal connection 26 at the top of said rod section 24 thereby shifted on the arcuate arm 2'1 toward the rock shaft I, with attendant shortening of the effective leverage of said arcuate arm and corresponding lengthening of the stroke of the blade I to form larger fabric tucks of a definite size. In this connection it is important to note that in swinging the upper eccentric rod component 24 about the axis of the joint 25 to control the size of the rufiies formed by the blade I, the center of articulation 25 of the rod is confined by the sleeve portion 36a of the control lever 39 to movement in a substantially fixed path, as a result of which the lower or strap component 23 of the eccentric rod is restrained against angular movement about the eccentric 20 on the drive shaft 2!. Accordingly, the timing of the blade 7 relative to the needle or needles of the machine is not changed incident to the control of the movements of the blade as afore-explained. In other words, notwithstanding increase or decrease in the throw of the blade 1 to vary the size of the ruffles, said blade will always be advanced to a predetermined position in respect to the needle on its forward stroke as shown in dot and dash lines in Figs. VII and VIII so that the needle will in turn always penetrate at a fixed distance from the leading edges of the rufiles. In this regard, my invention constitutes an important improvement over forms of milling mechanisms wherein the eccentric rod and strap is bodily swung about the eccentric to vary the size of the ruffles, with attendant change in the timing of the blade in respect to the sewing machine needle.

With the upper stop 39 set high in the slot 40 of the gauge bracket 4! as in Figs. VII and VIII, the sliding pivotal connection 26 of the eccentric rod 23, 24 will be permitted to move to the outer end of the arcuate arm 21, and determine formation of fabric tucks of the smallest size by the ruflling blade I. Similarly, by adjusting the lower stop 43 higher in the slot 40 of the gauge bracket 4|, the mechanism may be set to produce tucks of any given maximum size. The graduations on the gauge not only facilitate adjustment of the stops 39 and 43, but make it possible to re-set the mechanism accurately to duplicate previous performances thereof.

Having thus described my invention, I claim:

1. Fabric manipulating mechanism for sewing machines, comprising a rock shaft, an arm on said rock shaft carrying a fabric engaging element, an arcuate arm also secured to the rock shaft, an actuating eccentric with a rod having a slidable end pivot connection with the arcuate arm, and a control lever whereby the pivotal connection of the eccentric rod can be shifted along the arcuate arm to vary the throw imparted to the fabric engaging element, said control lever being fulcrumed on a fixed axis and having a sliding connection with the eccentric rod.

2. Fabric manipulating mechanism for sewing machines, comprising a rock shaft; an arm on said rock shaft carrying a fabric engaging element, an arcuate arm also secured to the rock shaft, an eccentric with an articulated rod in two sections having a slidable end pivot connection with the arcuate arm, the curvature of said arm being concentric with the axis of the joint between the two sections of the eccentric rod when the fabric engaging element is in its fully advanced position; and means whereby the end pivot connection of the eccentric rod can be shifted along the arcuate arm to vary the throw imparted to the fabric engaging element, including a control lever fulcrumed on a fixed axis with which the axis of the joint in the eccentric rod coincides when the fabric engaging element is positioned as aforesaid, said control lever hav ing a sleeve portion in sliding engagement with the outer section of the eccentric rod.

3. In combination, a sewing machine comprising a work plate, a hollow standard and gooseneck extending above the work plate, a bar with a seaming needle guided for vertical reciprocation in a head at'the end ofthe gooseneck, and a drive shaft beneath the work plate; and fabric manipulating mechanism comprising a horizontal rock shaft borne at one side of the gooseneck, an arm at the outer end of the rock shaft carrying a fabric engaging element for reciprocation horizontally toward and away from the needle, an arcuate arm at the rear end of the rock shaft reaching inward through an opening at the side of the hollow'stan'dard aforesaid, and an actuating eccentric on the drive shaft with its rod'ex tending upward within the hollow, of the standard and having aslidable end pivot connection with the arcuate arm, and a control lever whereby the pivot end of the eccentric rodcan be shifted along the arcuate arm to vary the throw imparted to the fabric engaging element, said lever reaching outward through a slot in the side of the standard from a fixed fulcrum center within the hollow of the latter and having a sliding connection with the eccentric rod.

4. Fabric manipulating mechanism for sewing machines comprising a fabric engaging element adapted to be moved toward and away from the needle of the machine, means for actuating said fabric engaging element, a common drive source from which the needle and the element actuating means both receive their motion, and control mean for varying the movement imparted to the element without attendant change in the timing of the element in respect to the movements of the needle, and with the needle always penetrating at a fixed distance from the leading fold edges of the ruffles irrespective of the width of said rufiies.

5. Fabricmanipulatingmechanism for sewing machines comprising a rock shaft; a fabric engaging element operated by said shaft, a main drive shaft from which the element and the sewing machine needle both receive their motion, and control means for varying the movements imparted to the element without attendant change in the timing of the element in respect to the needle, and with the needle always penetrating at a fixed distance form the leading fold edges of the ruffles irrespective of the width of said ruffles.

6. Fabric manipulating mechanism for sewing machines comprising a rock shaft; a fabric engaging element operated by said shaft, a main shaft, motion transmitting means extending between said main shaft and the rock shaft includ-. ing an articulated connecting rod, and means for confining the point of articulation of the rod to movement in a substantially fixed path.

'7. Fabric manipulating mechanism for sewing machines comprising a rock shaft; a fabric engaging element actuated by said rock shaft, a drive shaft with an eccentric thereon, an articulated eccentric rod coordinated with they rock shaft aforesaid, and means for confining the point of articulation of the eccentric rod to movement in a substantially fixed path.-

8. Fabric manipulating mechanism for sewing,

machines,'comprising a rock shaft, an arm on said rock shaft carrying a fabric engaging element, an arcuate arm also secured to the rock shaft,

- an actuating eccentric with the rod having a a slot in a fixed guide to limitthe movement of the control lever and thereby determine maximum and minimum movements of the fabric engaging element.

9. Fabric manipulating mechanism for sewing machines, comprising a rock shaft, an arm on said rock shaft carrying a fabric engaging element, an arcuate arm also secured to the rock shaft, an actuating eccentric with the rod having a slidableend pivot connection with the arcuate arm, a control lever whereby the pivotal connectionof the eccentric rod can be shifted along the arcuate arm to vary the throw of the fabric engaging element, said controllever being fulcrumed on a fixed axis and having a sliding connection with the eccentric rod, a fixed gage with a slot therein and numbered graduations along the slot, and a pair of stops capable of being set in adjusted positions along the slot of the gage to limit the movement of the control lever and thereby determine maximum and minimum movements for the fabric engaging element.

10. Fabric manipulating mechanism for sewing machines, comprising a rock shaft, an arm on said rock shaft carrying a fabric engaging element, an arcuate arm also secured to the rock shaft, an actuating eccentric with the rod having a slidable end pivot connection with the arcuate arm, a control lever whereby the pivotal connection of the eccentric rod can be shifted along the arcuate arm to vary the throw of the fabric engaging element, said control lever being fulcrumed on a fixed axis and having a sliding connection with the eccentric rod, spaced stops capable of being set in adjusted positions along a slot in a fixed guide to limit the movement of the control lever and thereby determine maximum and minimum movements for the fabric engaging element, and means for yieldingly maintaining the control lever in engagement with one of the stops.

11. In combination, a sewing machine comprising a work plate, a hollow standard and -goose-. neck extending above the work plate, a bar with a seaming needle guided for vertical reciprocation in a head at the end of the gooseneck, a drive shaft beneath the work plate; and fabric manipu lating mechanism including a horizontal rock shaft borne at one side of the gooseneck, an arm at the front end of the rock shaft carrying a fabric engaging element for reciprocation horizontally toward and away from the needle, an arcuate arm at the rear end of the rock shaft reaching inward through an opening at the side of the hollow standard aforesaid, an actuating eccentric on the drive shaft with its rod extending upward within the hollow of the standard and having a slidable end pivot connection with the arcuate arm, a control lever whereby the pivoted end of the eccentric rod can be shifted along the arcuate arm to vary the throw of the arcuate engaging element, said lever reaching outward through a slot in the side of the standard from a fixed fulcrum center within the hollow of the latter and having a slide connection with the eccentric rcd, and spaced stops capable of being set in adjusted positions along a fixed guide to limit the movement of the control lever and thereby determine maximum and minimum movements for the fabric engaging element.

12. In combination, a sewing machine comprising a work plate, a hollow standard and gooseneck extending above the work plate, a bar with a seaming needle guided for vertical reciprocation in a head at the end of the gooseneck, a drive shaft beneath the work plate; and fabric manipulating mechanism including a horizontal rock shaft borne at one side of the gooseneck, an arm at the front end of the rock shaft carrying a fabric engaging element for reciprocation horizontally toward and away from the needle, an

end of the eccentric rod can be shifted along the arcuate arm to vary the throw of the fabric engaging element, said lever reaching outward through a slot in the side of the standard from a fixed fulcrum center within the hollow of the latter and having a slide connection with the eccentric rod, and a fixed gauge with a slot therein and numbered graduations along the slot, a pair of stops capable of being set in adjusted positions in the slot of the gauge to limit the movement of the control lever and thereby determine maximum and minimum movements for the fabric engaging element.

RUSSELL T. EDWARDS. 

